What calibration frames are, what your Seestar already does to every frame, and whether you need to shoot any.
Every raw frame holds the light you wanted plus things the camera added. The electronics add a fixed offset to every pixel (the bias). Heat knocks loose electrons nobody asked for (dark current). The optics light the sensor unevenly, dimmer toward the corners and shadowed by dust (the flat field). Calibration takes these back off: subtract a bias frame (the shortest exposure, no light), subtract a dark frame (same exposure and temperature, no light), and divide by a flat frame (an evenly lit surface). Many frames of each kind are averaged into a master, so the correction doesn't add noise of its own.
How sure each claim is, marked where it's made:
Your Seestar does a lot to each frame before you ever see it. On my S30 Pro (firmware 8.46) I compared frames the app saved with frames I pulled straight off the sensor over Alpaca, the standard network interface that desktop astronomy programs use (more in section 7). The app scales red by about 1.7 and blue by about 1.84, and it swaps out hot pixels: a 10-second dark over Alpaca has about 24,000 of them, and an app sub has almost none measured.
The app also has its own calibration settings: Flat Shoot (since app 2.5) and Dark Calibration (since app 3.3.0 on the S30 Pro) stated. What I don't know yet is whether they change the subs the app saves, or only the live stack you watch on your phone. ZWO's own notes disagree, and the files don't say. I'm testing it.
Either way, darks you shoot yourself can't help subs the app saved. Those subs have had their colors scaled and their hot pixels swapped before you ever see them, so your darks no longer match them.
If you shoot in the Seestar app, which is most of us: there's no bias or dark frame to shoot. The app doesn't offer bias frames, and darks you shoot yourself can't match subs the app has already processed. Flats are the open one. The app's Flat Shoot (Settings → Advanced Feature → Image Calibration) is the only flat that could reach your subs, and I'm testing whether it does being tested. This line changes when the result is in. Upload your subs as they are, and SkyCruncher models what's missing.
If you shoot over Alpaca, with NINA today or a SkyCruncher helper app later: a full set of bias, darks and flats tells you your own sensor's numbers. That's section 7.
Your Seestar can also be run over Alpaca, the standard network interface that desktop astronomy programs use. Frames shot this way skip the app's processing, so they show what the sensor itself does: how noisy each read is, how fast heat builds up, where the hot pixels are. They don't calibrate stacks made in the app. Think of them as a checkup for your sensor.
Today it takes NINA, a free Windows program, and about an hour indoors at any time of day. A small SkyCruncher helper app that runs it all for you is in the works planned. A web page alone can't do it: the scope doesn't accept calls from websites, so it has to be a small download.
You'll need: your Seestar, charged and on your home Wi-Fi; a Windows computer with NINA 3; a tablet or phone with a plain white screen; a sheet of white paper; rubber bands or painter's tape; and your solar filter cover (or opaque card and tape) for the wide camera.
Every number measured over Alpaca comes from one Seestar S30 Pro (firmware 8.46, app 3.3.2, Alpaca server 1.2.0-3). This page says what I measured on my unit, not what ZWO's firmware does in general.